Northumberland is England’s most northerly county, and its coast packs a remarkable amount into a short stretch: great castles, long sandy beaches backed by dunes, fishing villages and an island you can only reach when the tide allows. Two days is enough for the highlights between Alnwick and Holy Island, working from south to north. For where to stay and more places to visit, see our Northumberland visitor guide.
Day one in Northumberland: Alnwick, Craster and Dunstanburgh Castle
Begin in the market town of Alnwick. Alnwick Castle, home of the Dukes of Northumberland, is one of the largest inhabited castles in England, with state rooms, museums and wide lawns inside the walls. It is also a screen star: the first two Harry Potter films used it as Hogwarts, and it played Brancaster Castle in two Downton Abbey Christmas specials — more on that in our guide to UK film and TV locations you can visit. The castle is seasonal. The 2026 season has finished and the castle says it plans to reopen in March 2027, so winter visitors will see it from the outside only; the view from the Lion Bridge over the River Aln is the one to seek out.
Next door, The Alnwick Garden is a separate attraction with its own tickets and opening times, known for its Grand Cascade and a huge treehouse. On the other side of town, Barter Books fills Alnwick’s former railway station with second-hand books, armchairs and a model railway running above the shelves — a very good place to lose an hour, especially on a wet day.
After lunch, drive or take the bus to Craster, a small harbour village long associated with smoked kippers. From the harbour, a grassy coastal path leads north to the ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle, a little over a mile away. There is no road to the castle, which is much of its appeal: the gatehouse towers grow slowly on the skyline as you walk, with the sea on your right. The path is easy but can be muddy and is fully exposed to the wind. You can enjoy the walk and the outside of the ruins at any time; check the English Heritage website for the days the castle interior is open, as these are limited in winter. Keen walkers can continue beyond the castle to the sands of Embleton Bay.
Stay overnight in Alnwick, Alnmouth, Craster or Seahouses, all of which have pubs and places to eat.
Day two in Northumberland: Bamburgh Castle, the Farne Islands and Holy Island
Plan day two around the tide. Holy Island (Lindisfarne) is linked to the mainland by a causeway that is covered by the sea twice a day, and the safe crossing times change daily. Northumberland County Council publishes the official tables online: look them up before you set off, decide whether the island fits best in the morning or the afternoon, and never attempt to cross outside the safe period. Vehicles are caught out every year.
On the island you will find the ruins of Lindisfarne Priory, on the site of the monastery where the Lindisfarne Gospels were created, and Lindisfarne Castle, perched on a rocky crag above the harbour. The village has cafes, a pub or two and a winery shop selling mead. Allow at least three hours, and check the opening times of the priory and castle, which are run by English Heritage and the National Trust respectively and vary with the tides and the season.
Fit Bamburgh around your crossing. Bamburgh Castle stands on a great outcrop of rock directly above one of the finest beaches in England, and it looks the part from every angle. The castle is open daily for much of the year, including a Christmas season running to early January, then switches to weekends only for part of the winter — confirm on the castle’s website. Even if you do not go in, walk the beach below: at low tide the sand is vast, and the views stretch to the Farne Islands and Holy Island.
A few miles south, Seahouses is the departure point for boat trips to the Farne Islands, a National Trust seabird and seal sanctuary. Puffin trips generally run from April to late July, after which the birds head back out to sea; grey seals can be seen at other times of year. Sailings depend on the weather and the arrangements for landing on the islands have changed in recent years, so check with the boat operators and the National Trust before you plan around it. Seahouses is also a reliable stop for fish and chips.
Getting to Northumberland and getting around
The East Coast Main Line runs the length of the county, with stations at Morpeth, Alnmouth and Berwick-upon-Tweed served by trains on the route between London, York, Newcastle and Edinburgh. Alnmouth is the station for Alnwick; the Arriva X20 bus links the two. Along the coast, the X18 route connects Newcastle, Alnwick, Seahouses and Berwick. Services are limited compared with a city, so check current timetables and build your day around them.
A car makes this itinerary much easier, particularly for Holy Island and for linking Craster, Bamburgh and Seahouses in one day. The main A1 runs a few miles inland; the signed coastal route on minor roads is slower but far more scenic. Newcastle is the nearest city and airport, around an hour’s drive south of Alnwick depending on traffic.
When to visit Northumberland
May to July is the best time for seabirds on the Farnes and for long evenings on the beach. Summer school holidays are the busiest weeks, though “busy” here is relative — the beaches are big enough to absorb everyone. Autumn brings migrant birds and thousands of wintering geese and waders around Lindisfarne. Winter is quiet and atmospheric, with dramatic light and dark night skies, but Alnwick Castle is closed, some cafes and attractions keep shorter hours and boat trips are weather-dependent. A North Sea breeze is a possibility in any month, so pack layers.
What’s on in Northumberland
For festivals, food events, castle events and guided walks, see the dated listings on our Northumberland events page, or browse the full UK events calendar.
Plan your trip
- Check the tide first. Holy Island’s safe crossing times dictate the shape of day two. Use the official Northumberland County Council tables.
- Confirm opening dates. Alnwick Castle, Dunstanburgh, Bamburgh and the island sites all have seasonal hours — check each official site rather than assuming.
- Book boats in advance in the puffin season, and have a back-up plan in case the sea is too rough to sail.
- Extend your stay. With a third day, head inland for Hadrian’s Wall, or continue north to Berwick-upon-Tweed and on to Edinburgh.
- Read more. Our Northumberland guide and North England page have more ideas, and this coast features in our guides to the best UK coastal walks and the best UK beaches. For another short break, try two days in the Peak District.