Edinburgh is one of the great European cities, and it makes a superb long weekend destination at almost any time of year — except, arguably, August, when the Festival takes over and prices double. Here is how to spend three days well, with practical recommendations for places to eat, things to see and areas to stay.
Getting there
Edinburgh is well connected from across the UK. From London King’s Cross the LNER East Coast Main Line takes around 4.5 hours to Edinburgh Waverley — genuinely competitive with flying once you factor in airport time, and considerably more comfortable. From Manchester, CrossCountry or TransPennine trains take around 3.5 hours. From Glasgow Queen Street the service to Edinburgh takes 50 minutes and runs every 15 minutes throughout the day. Edinburgh Airport is served by most UK airports and has a tram connection directly to the city centre (the tram stop at the airport is adjacent to the terminal; the journey to Princes Street takes around 35 minutes).
Day 1: The Old Town
Start at Edinburgh Castle, which opens at 9.30am. Allow two hours minimum — the Crown Jewels, the Stone of Destiny and the One O’Clock Gun are the headline attractions, but the castle complex is larger and more varied than most first-time visitors expect. From the Esplanade you get the clearest view of the New Town laid out below and Arthur’s Seat rising behind.
Walk down the Royal Mile from the castle to Holyrood. The closes and wynds running off both sides of the Mile repay exploration — Victoria Street (a curved, gallery-fronted street) is one of the most photographed in Scotland, while Grassmarket below, flanked by the castle rock, has good independent pubs and is quieter than the Mile itself. The Real Mary King’s Close, an underground street preserved beneath the city since the 17th century, is worth booking in advance. At the bottom of the Mile, the Palace of Holyroodhouse is the official Scottish residence of the monarch and contains remarkable state apartments.
In the evening, Grassmarket and the Cowgate have a concentration of bars and restaurants. Ondine on George IV Bridge is one of Edinburgh’s best seafood restaurants. For something more casual, Maki & Ramen on Hanover Street does excellent Japanese food at reasonable prices.
Day 2: Arthur’s Seat, Leith and the New Town
An early start allows you to climb Arthur’s Seat, the 251-metre extinct volcano that sits within Holyrood Park at the edge of the city centre, before the crowds arrive. The most straightforward route from the Holyrood car park takes around 45 minutes of steady walking and rewards you with views across to Fife, the Forth bridges, the Pentland Hills and, on clear days, the Highlands. This is arguably the best free view in any European capital.
Spend the afternoon in Leith, Edinburgh’s port district, which has reinvented itself over the last two decades into one of Scotland’s most dynamic food and drink destinations. The Shore, a waterfront strip alongside the Water of Leith, has a concentration of good independent restaurants. The Kitchin, Martin Wishart and Heron all have Michelin recognition. For something more affordable, Fishers on The Shore does excellent local seafood in a relaxed bistro setting. The Ocean Terminal mall is worth ignoring, but the Royal Yacht Britannia, moored nearby, is an extraordinary and genuinely moving experience — the preserved state rooms give an intimate glimpse of royal life from a very particular era.
The New Town, built in the Georgian period to a formal grid plan, is worth an afternoon in itself. Princes Street Gardens, sitting between the Old and New Towns with the castle as a backdrop, is one of the finest urban parks in Britain. The Scottish National Gallery at the foot of the Mound contains an outstanding collection including Velázquez, El Greco, Rembrandt and a room of Raeburns.
Day 3: Day trip options
Edinburgh’s position makes it an excellent base for day trips. The most popular is to the Highlands — a drive north on the A9 via Pitlochry takes you into proper Highland scenery within an hour and a half. Stirling Castle, 45 minutes by train or car, is arguably even more historically significant than Edinburgh Castle and far less crowded. The East Neuk fishing villages of Fife (St Andrews, Anstruther, Crail) are an hour and twenty minutes by car or reachable by a combination of train to Leuchars and local bus. Rosslyn Chapel, made famous by The Da Vinci Code but worth visiting on its own medieval merits, is 30 minutes south by bus.
Where to stay
The Old Town has the highest concentration of hotels and is the most atmospheric place to be based, though street noise can be an issue on the Royal Mile itself. The New Town is quieter and more residential, with a good selection of Georgian guesthouses and boutique hotels. Leith, a 20-minute walk or a short bus ride from the centre, offers better value and a more local feel. For the long weekend visitor on a budget, the hostels on Cockburn Street and the Royal Mile are consistently good and central. For a splurge, the Balmoral at the east end of Princes Street is one of Scotland’s grandest hotels, with the Michelin-starred Number One restaurant in the basement.
Practical notes
- The Lothian Buses day ticket (around £4.50) covers unlimited bus travel across the city and is much better value than paying per journey
- Edinburgh is hilly — comfortable shoes are essential. The New Town is relatively flat; the Old Town is not
- Most of the major museums and galleries (National Museum of Scotland, Scottish National Gallery, National Portrait Gallery) are free to enter
- Book Edinburgh Castle in advance online to avoid queues, especially in summer
- The city is busiest in August (Festival), December (Christmas market and Hogmanay) and in the weeks around Easter. May, June and September offer the best combination of weather, daylight and manageable crowds